Climbing the big 3 technical climbing Ecuador Volcanoes, Illiniza sur, Antisana and Chimborazo, Ecuador climbing tour itinerary and details

The Three Technical Climbs: Illiniza Sur + Antisana + Chimborazo (11 days)

Overview

Quick Info
Price: From USD 1714 Days: 11 Grade: Intermediate Place: Central Andes
Overview
For a small country, Ecuador is very well endowed with major peaks, with 25 over fifteen thousand feet, many within a days drive from Quito. Most of the big volcanoes are to be found in the 'Avenue of the Volcanoes' with the Eastern and Western Cordilleras running either side of the high central valleys. Ecuador offers a wide range of beautiful landscapes which are famous for excellent trekking and mountain climbing. The wild mountain scenery with the majestic and partly still active volcanoes, little Indian villages and the typical paramo vegetation is just spectacular and should not be missed. The classic snow capped cone shaped volcanoes are much in evidence, for example Cotopaxi (a 5897 m. cone-shaped active volcano), Chimborazo, Cayambe and Tungurahua. A number are active, with Cotopaxi being alledgedly the world’s highest active volcano. Chimborazo (6310-metre), although by no means the tallest peak in South America, does have the distinction of being the closest place on earth to the sun, due to the earth's bulge at the equator. From the peak of the volcanoes you can enjoy the breathtaking views overlooking huge valleys, canyons and other mountains.

PRICE 2011
No. Passengers	Price USD
2 - 3 pax	2506
4 - 6 pax	2242
7- 10 pax	1978
11 - 15 pax	1714

◊ PRICE INCLUDES

•    All in country transportation.
•    All accommodation costs (hostelries (based on double or triple occupancy) and mountain hut fees). Hotels in Quito are not included (last night)
•    All meals (breakfast, lunch, box lunch while climbing and dinner), except dinners in Quito.
•    All group climbing gear.
•    Park entry fees and permits.
•    Certified bilingual Mountain Guide.
•    Glacier climbing ratio: 2 climbers /1 guide.

◊ PRICE DOES NOT INCLUDE

•    Personal gear (see our Climbing Volcanoes Equipment List and Climbing Volcanoes Equipment Rental List)).
•    Hotels in Quito (last night).
•    Alcoholic and bottled drinks, and extra food.
•    Single room supplement (this supplement will apply if a match cannot be made or if there is a last minute cancellation).
•    Charges incurred as a result of delays, cancellations or early departures, all beyond Pioneer Journeys control.
•    Insurances (see our Insurance products and Information).
•    Tips.
•    Meals while traveling.
•    What it is not specified in the Included section.

Itinerary

Detailed Itinerary

• Day 1: Quito to Hostería Llovizna

Ecuador Mountain Climbing Tours Volcanoes

You will travel from Quito to la Hostería Llovizana, where you are going to spend the night.
Lodging: Hostería Llovizna (El Chaupi)

• Day 2: South Illiniza Refuge or Campsite

Ecuador Mountain Climbing Tours Illiniza Volcano

From La Virgen Parking Lot (3,900 m / 12,792 ft) follow the well marked and signed trail that ends up at the northern moraine ridge of Illiniza Sur, 2 hours after leaving the trailhead. Another trail continues up switchbacking by the steep scree ridge. Follow the ridge up for about 30 minutes to 45 minutes until it traverses west towards the saddle. The Nuevos Horizontes refuge is clearly visible from the ridge. Depending on the refuge conditions, we will set a campsite.
Lodging: South Illiniza Refuge or Altitud Camp

• Day 3: South Illiniza Summit

The Ilinizas are two mountains that hold the 6th highest Ecuadorian peak title (Iliniza Sur 5248 mts.) and the 8th highest peak (IIiniza Norte at 5126 mts.) They used to be one whole crater, but eventually splited in two. These peaks are 55 kmts south of Quito, the capital of Ecuador. Iliniza Sur holds more humidity than Iliniza North, and therefore Sur has a permament snow and glacier. Iliniza Norte (North) also is know to be easier than its cousin Iliniza Sur (South). It seems that the main challenge is the use of equipment and the snow/ice specific skills for the later, while for the former the deal is good hiking and scrambling skills. Indeed, while the South peak is advised for experience climbers, the other is suitable for those in the way to good acclimatization.
Lodging: South Illiniza Refuge or Altitud Camp

• Day 4: Antisana Base Camp

Ecuador Mountain Climbing Tours Antisana Volcano

This massive, glaciated volcano can be found southeast of Quito in a hidden valley, a distance away from any main road.
Steep slopes and plenty of crevasses complicate the ascent and make it a mountain for climbers with experience. During the trip, you will be camping in tents, which will provide a unique atmosphere and special experience.
Lodging: Tents in Antisana Base Camp

• Day 5: Review of Technical Skills

Glacier activities, we'll spend some time on the glacier training several techniques and skills. Here you can learn about different techniques to climb this beautiful mountain.
Lodging: Tents in Antisana Base Camp

• Day 6: Antisana Summit

Antisana is Ecuador's 4th highest volcano and one of the least climbed. It has a reputation for being a difficult and dangerous mountain that isn't completely unfounded. It's active glaciers make routefinding a significant problem and it is easy to find yourself lost in a city of seracs on the upper glacier. It doesn't help that the "Standard Route" described in the lasted editions of the climbing guides isn't the standard route any longer due to its length and crevasse difficulties.
You will hike up the scree slopes until we arrive at the glacier. From here you ascend snow and ice, arriving at a steep section just below the crater rim. Here we find the most difficult section of the climb - negotiating a large bergschrund that protects the summit from easy access.
Lodging: Hacienda La Ciénega

• Day 7: Drive trip to the City of Riobamba and to the base of Chimborazo Volcano

Ecuador Mountain Climbing Tours Chimborazo Volcano

This day is important in order to recover the strength and prepare for our last challenge in Chimborazo. We will drive for about 3 hours through the Andes till the City of Riobamba and to the comfortable mountain refuge Estrella del Chimborazo. We will have time to relax and visit some interesting historic points.
Lodging: Estrella del Chimborazo

• Day 8: Estrella del Chimborazo to High Campsite (5.047m/16,558ft)

After breakfast, we’ll get prepared for a three hours hike up to our high campsite. Once there, we’ll spend the afternoon preparing for the climb.
Lodging: Estrella del Chimborazo or Altitude Camp

• Day 9: Chimborazo Summit (6.310m/20,702ft)

Day of ascension to the summit at (6.310m/20,702ft), following the route established by Edward Whymper during his first ascension of Chimborazo in 1880 together with the Italian guide Carrel de Velturuanche. 8 to 10 hours of climbing. The return to the hut will take 4 hours and from there we will return to the base camp. Overnight at the camp.
Lodging: Estrella del Chimborazo

Day 10: Extra Day

This extra day is highly recommended in order to improve the chances of climbing all of our goals. For instance, it can be used as an extra day for climbing Chimborazo if bad weather conditions delay our climbing attempt or extra rest or acclimatization day is needed. If that extra day is finally not needed for climbing, you can choose the activities that you prefer, there in Estrella del Chimborazo.
Lodging: Estrella del Chimborazo

Day 11: Return to Quito

After having breakfast we’ll drive through the Avenue of Volcanoes back to Quito where we’ll accommodate in our hotel and celebrate the end of the trip with a great dinner.
Lodging: Hotel in Quito

Photo Gallery

Climbing South Illiniza

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Testimonials

I will never forget this experience!

Climbing the volcanoes of Ecuador has been a unique and thrilling experience, specially Cotopaxi! But most of all I enjoyied meeting Pioneer Journeys climbing guides, sharing their adventures, learning from their experience and techniques.

I received a very professional treatment in a surprising natural spectacle.

What more could you ask for?

Lluís Casas – Barcelona (Spain)

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Overview

PRICE 2011

Itinerary