Long Expedition

Ascent Cotopaxi, Chimborazo 10 days/9 nights: From USD 1450   This is a beautiful combination of acclimatization mountains and high altitude volcanoes. Climbing Ruco Pichincha (4.698 m / 15,413 ft) and Illiniza Norte (5.116 m / 16,785 ft) through its Andean grass carpets will let us to properly acclimatize for the following high altitude challenging mountains: Cotopaxi (19,347ft/5.897m) the second highest volcano in Ecuador and one of the most perfect cone shaped active volcanoes in the world; and Chimborazo (6.310m/20,702ft), the highest peak of Ecuador and of the World if we measure it from the core of the globe. Details of Climbing Volcanoes Trip. Leght: 10 days Location: Andes Volcanoes: Rucu Pichincha, North Illiniza, Cotopaxi, Chimborazo	Three Big Volcanoes: Cayambe, Cotopaxi, Chimborazo 13 days/12 nights: From USD 2002       This is a challenging program ideal for those who want to climb the three biggest volcanoes of Ecuador with a relatively short acclimatization process. It is recommended to those who already come to Ecuador in good training condition.   Details of Climbing Volcanoes Trip. Leght: 13 days Location: Andes Volcanoes: North Illiniza, Cayambe, Cotopaxi, Chimborazo
Two Big Volcanoes: Cayambe, Cotopaxi 9 days/8 nights: From USD 1450 This a is a beautiful combination of an acclimatization mountain, North Illiniza (5.126 m/ 16,818 ft), and two high altitude challenging mountains: Cayambe (5.790m/18,997ft) is the third highest mountains in the Ecuadorian Andes and Cotopaxi (19,347ft/5.897m) the second and one of the most perfect cone shaped active volcanoes in the world. Details of Climbing Volcanoes Trip. Leght: 9 days Location: Andes Volcanoes: North Illiniza, Cayambe, Cotopaxi	Three Technical Climbs: Illiniza Sur, Antisana, Chimborazo 11 days/10 nights: From USD 1714 For a small country, Ecuador is very well endowed with major peaks, with 25 over fifteen thousand feet, many within a days drive from Quito. Most of the big volcanoes are to be found in the 'Avenue of the Volcanoes' with the Eastern and Western Cordilleras running either side of the high central valleys. Ecuador offers a wide range of beautiful landscapes which are famous for excellent trekking and mountain climbing. Details of Climbing Volcanoes Trip. Leght: 11 days Location: Andes Volcanoes: South Illiniza, Antisana, Chimborazo

Short Expedition

Carihuarazo, Chimborazo 6 days/5 nights: From USD 994 This is a perfect Expedition for people that are mainly interested in climbing Chimborazo (6.310m/20,702ft), the highest mountain of Ecuador and of the world if we measure it from the center of the Earth. Take into account that in this program we have a relatively quick acclimatization, the Carihuairazo Volcano (5.116 m / 16,785 ft). Details of Climbing Volcanoes Trip.  Leght: 6 days Location: Andes	Rumiñahui, Cotopaxi 4 days/3 nights: From USD 658 This is a quick combination of the beautiful acclimatization peak Rumiñahui (4.634m/15,203ft) , and the amazing Cotopaxi (19,347ft/5.897m), one of the most perfect cone shaped active volcanoes in the world. Details of Climbing Volcanoes Trip. Leght: 4 days Location: Andes
Imbabura, Cayambe 5 days/4 nights: From USD 790   Imbabura 4.650 m / 15,256 ft) is an extinct volcano located in a very indigenous region; we’ll have the opportunity to visit the world’s famous indigenous market of Otavalo and to acclimatize for our amazing climbing of the massive Cayambe Volcano (5.790m/18,997ft), the third highest mountain of Ecuador with its largest and most spectacular glacier found in the country. Details of Climbing Volcanoes Trip. Leght: 5 days Location: Andes

Overview

The volcanic mountain summits of Ecuador provide easy access to high-altitude climbing with their peaks reaching over 20.697 ft. (6.310m).

Ecuador's glacier-covered mountains straddle the equatorial zone of the planet providing relatively warm mountaineering environments and a variety of technical climbing challenges. The Andes is the world's second highest mountain range, spanning from Colombia to the tip of Patagonia in southern Chile.

For a small country, Ecuador is very well endowed with major peaks, with 25 over fifteen thousand feet, many within a days drive from Quito. Most of the big volcanos are to be found in the 'Avenue of the Volcanoes' with the Eastern and Western Cordilleras running either side of the high central valleys.

The classic snow capped cone shaped volcanoes are much in evidence, for example Cotopaxi, Chimborazo, Cayambe and Tungurahua. A number are active, with Cotopaxi being alledgedly the world's highest active volcano -check the status locally before you climb. Chimborazo, although by no means the tallest peak in South America, does have the distinction of being the closest place on earth to the sun, due to the earth's bulge at the equator (the earth's shape is that of an oblate spheroid).

For the more experienced climbers there are other more complex peaks that give a greater challenge, including Antisana, El Altar and Iliniza Sur, and in the east, away from the Cordilleras there are three peaks, Reventador, Sumaco and Sangay, that give a very different experience, being set in dense jungle.

There are numerous non glaciated lower peaks that can be used to aclimatise - Pichincha and Imbabura for example. They look straightforward, but they are nonetheless not just an afternoon stroll -take advice first -there are a number of very good websites listed below. Be careful of robbers on the slopes of Pichincha.

There are climbing huts at Cotopaxi, Chimborazo, Cayambe, Ilinizas, and Tungurahua (however due to volcanic activity Tungurahua is no longer safe to climb).


Please, check our Climbing Volcanoes Expeditions in our Catalogue and pick up those that suit your preferences the best. As you can read in our How to Book section, it is very easy for you to build your perfect trip by doing this with the rest of our Expeditions and Active Itineraries. We recommend you to carefully read the Climbing Volcanoes FAQ and Climbing Volcanoes Equipment List. If you have some more questions, ask one of our sale agents and we will be pleased to help you.

¡Imagine your perfect trip!

FAQs

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the skill level of our climbs?

Take a look at our Climbing Volcanoes Grades. Bear in mind that in all of our programs there is always some skill preparation activities with our certified climbing guides. Also don’t miss our Mountaineering Course and Climb Program. Grades Beginner and Intermediate do not need any previous technical experience, though it is recommended.
 

What is the physical conditioning level needed for our climbing programs?

Climbers must be in very good physical condition, since summit day can be 10 hours long on Cotopaxi, 11 hours long on Cayambe and 12 hours long on Chimborazo.
 

Any tips on how a climber can maximize their chances of success?

Along with the recommended crampon skills, review our physical training recommendations that have been generally proved successfully in the Ecuador Volcano Climbs. But the most important issue is acclimatization: all our Volcano Climbing Programs take into account the acclimatization process. Follow the advice of our guides to acclimatize properly and improve safety and chances of success.
 

Who is the guiding team composed of? How many guides are per climber?

Please, check our Climbing Volcanoes Leader Guides. You can also email them any doubt you may have. In High Volcanoes (intermediate and advanced grades) we always apply the technically appropriate ratio of two climbers to one guide.
 

What is the best season to climb?

For climbing the snowcapped volcanoes of Ecuador, there are two good climbing periods: from June to August (normally clear sky but windy) and from November to February (the best season). Nevertheless, Cotopaxi can be climbed through all year, since its strategic geographical position generates a microclimate that makes that mountain the sunniest of the big ones in Ecuador. Most of our Climbing Volcanoes Expeditions have incorporated an extra day in order to increase the chances of success (and if the extra day is not necessarily, we have plenty of interesting alternative activities that will certainly satisfy you).
 

Will we sleep in tents or in accommodation facilities?

Generally you won’t sleep in tents. Lodging for the expeditions is in hotels, hostelries and mountain huts. Only in some mountains and acclimatization trekkings the tents are the only option (Antisana, trekking of Condor and of Sangay).

How much will my backpack weight?

In summit days your backpack shouldn’t weight more than 20 pounds.
 

What is the required gear?

Please, check our Climbing Volcanoes Equipment List. Also check our Renting Climbing Volcanoes Equipment List from where you’ll be able to reserve the gear you may need.

How can I rent your climbing gear?

Firs of all, when you fill our Booking Form, tell us you will need to rent some of our gear. Then, we’ll email you the Climbing Volcanoes Rental Form that you will have to fill and email back to us. We’ll proceed with the reservation. Once you are in Quito and in appropriate advance from your expedition, one of our Climbing Volcanoes Leader Guides will accompany you to pick up and try the equipment.

What will the meals and drinks on the expedition be like?

While in the mountain meals will be rich in carbohydrates, since in high altitude our body has difficulties to assimilate fat and proteins efficiently. Meals will be diverse and sufficient to cover the caloric needs our climbing demands. Water in mountain huts comes from the glacier melting and, moreover, we always boil it to kill any organism that may be alive at that altitude. In hotels and hostelries, we’ll have normal meals and bottled beverages. Check in our expeditions which meals are included.

Can I bring some food from home?

You may bring some energetic dried bars or similar staff. Bear in mind that you can by those things in Quito to.

Is there any communication while we are on the mountains?

Our guides always bring mobile telephones.

Can I contact your guides?

Of course! In our web section Blog Express you can email any of our Leader Guides. Bear in mind that they spend most of the time in the mountains and they may need some time to answer your questions.

How much should I tip my Leader Guide and Staff?

Tipping is not obligatory but a common practice. As a general orientation, about $10 a day is an appropriate tip.

What happens if I need to leave the expedition before the end?

If you need to depart early, our guides and office staff will assist you in obtaining the necessary transportation and reservations to get you home as soon as possible.

Please, also check our How to Book section for booking, payment and Terms and Conditions information.

Our Guides

Pioneer Journeys works exclusively with the best certified guides in Ecuador. Our climbing guides are certified by the Ecuadorian Association of Mountain Guides (ASEGUIM), a body officially recognized by the Ecuadorian authorities and member of the South American Union of Mountain Guides Associations.


In addition, our Leader Guide, Andres, is one of the few guides in Ecuador with the  Union of International Mountain Guides  Associations (UIAGM), and has a vast experience and expertise in climbing, both in the Andes and the Alps. Learn more about Andrés and if you have any questions for him, please do not doubt in asking us and he will promptly answer.

Andrés, Pioneer Journeys Mountain Climbing Leading Guide

- Age: 27 year old.

• - Guide and Instructor ASEGUIM and UIAGM, Instructor AGMTB (Association of Mountain Guides and Trekking in Bolivia) and UIAGM to South America, Technical Director of the School of Mountain Guides in Ecuador ASEGUIM.

  

• - UIAGM Certified Instructor Guide and the ENSA (National School of Sky & Climbing in France) - Chamonix.

• - Fairly Experience guiding in the mountains of the Andes (Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia), Alps (France, Italy, Switzerland, Germany) and Pyrenees (France and Spain).

• - Climber from 10 years of age, and experience in technical vertical work.

• - Long path leading extreme climbing routes as Cayesh Peak 5.721m. (TD Sup.) in Peru;

  - Different north faces in the Alps (Ed Sup.), (ABO inf.), walls of more than 1000 m. of climbing, rock, ice, snow and mixed.: Aiguille du Midi, Aiguille du Plan, Aiguille de Grepon, Grand Cappuccino, Mt Maudit - Arête of Kuffner - Mont Blanc, etc.

• - Specialist education for children and adolescents of all ages.

• - Sport climbing and Boulder as well.
  
  "I make the invitation to all those people willing to feell adrenaline and spirituality through sports and mountain climbing and want and have a wonderful experience in Ecuador enjoying all our treasures, landscapes, mountains and people!"

Equipment List

Climbing Equipment

Ice Axe with Leash. (rentable)
Crampons. (rentable)
Alpine Climbing Harness. (rentable)
2 Pear Locking Carabiners. (rentable)
Climbing helmet. (rentable)
 

Footwear

Light hiking boots or trekking shoes.
Double plastic or Leather climbing boots. (rentable)
Gaiters. Please make sure your gaiters fit around the plastic boot. (rentable)
Wool or Synthetic Socks. One pair for every summit day. Heavyweight wool or synthetic socks (wool is warmer) to be worn over the liner socks.
Liner Socks. One pair for every summit day. Smooth thin wool or synthetic to be worn next to the skin.
 

Technical Clothing

Lightweight Long Underwear. One pair tops & bottoms every two summit days. Synthetic or wool. No Cotton.
Heavyweight Long Underwear top.
Synthetic/Soft Shell jacket and a Hard Shell jacket with hood. (rentable)
Soft Shell Pants and Hard Shell Pants. (rentable)
Waterproof Windbreaker with hood.
 

Technical Headwear

Lightweight synthetic/wool hat. Should cover ears.
Balaclava (rentable)
Glacier glasses with side covers. 100% UV/IR. If you wear contact lenses we recommend packing a spare pair of glasses.
Goggles. Used instead of glacier glasses when weather turns severe.
Buff. To covers neck and mouth.
Cap/sun hat. To shade the nose and eyes.
 

Technical Handwear

Lightweight Synthetic Gloves.
Synthetic/Soft Shell Gloves.
Hard Shell Mitts. Waterproof, breathable shell material.
 

Personal Expedition Equipment

Trekking Backpack. Internal frame pack from 2,500 to 3,500 cu. in. for acclimatization hikes and day climbs.
Expedition Backpack. Internal frame pack expandable to a minimum of 5,500 cu. in.
Sleeping Bag. With hood rated to at least 0ºF and compression stuff sack.
Isolating Pad.
Personal cooking gear: Cup and plastic mug with snap-on lid.
Headlamp. And spare batteries.
Sunscreen. SPF 30 or better. Bare in mind that sunscreen older than six months loses half of its SPF rating.
Lipscreen. SPF 30. Not older than 6 months.
Water Bottles: 2 to 3 Wide mouth bottles with minimum 1 Liter capacity per bottle. No water bag or bladder systems, they freeze or are hard to fill.
Toiletry bag. Toilet paper, toothbrush, toothpaste, soap, shampoo.
Knife.
Travel clothes.
 

First Aid

Small personal first-aid kit. (Simple and Light) Aspirin (Extra Strength Excedrin is best), Antibiotic ointment, Moleskin, molefoam, waterproof first-aid tape, athletic tape, Band-Aids, personal prescriptions, etc. The guides will have extensive first-aid kits, so leave anything extra behind. Please let your guide know about any medical issues before the climb. ???
Drugs/Medications/Prescriptions. Climbers should bring Pepto Bismol. Ciprofloxin (Cipro) 500mg tablets for traveler’s diarrhea and for urinary tract infections. Azithromycin (Z-pak) 250mg tablets for non-gastrointestinal infections. Acetazolamide (Diamox) 125 or 250mg tablets for altitude sickness. Ibuprofen (Advil, Motrin) 200mg tablets for altitude headaches, sprains, aches, etc. Excedrin for headaches. Acetaminophen for stomach sensitivity.

Peaks over Poverty

PEAKS OVER POVERTY AND PIONEER JOURNEYS ARE FIRMLY ASSOCIATED

CLIMBERS FOR A CAUSE

Peaks Over Poverty is a network of outdoor enthusiasts who organize “climb-a-thons” to promote and fundraise for healthy living and the conservation of mountain resources. Pioneer Journeys is helping fundraising this organization, so by climbing the fantastic volcanoes of Ecuador, you as a climber are also helping the communities that live there.

Peaks Over Poverty raises funds for grassroots organizations dedicated to improving the well-being of rural mountain communities. With the help of Pioneer Journeys we support the communities that work with Groundswell International (a not-for-profit) in the Ecuadorian highlands.

We offers climbers and hikers of all levels a meaningful way to recognize and empower the people who can protect our sacred playground. As adventure tourists, we are often oblivious to the mountains’ keepers. These are the people who surround our journeys: the last village we stop in for trail food and water, the shepherd with his flock who we salute and take home in our cameras, volunteer park guards and guides, and the communities who are forced to leave their homes and live outside the boundaries of a new wildlife reserve or recreation park.

The FAO reported that nearly 30% of the world’s chronically undernourished live in mountains; this means that 245 million or more rural mountain people are at risk of, or suffer from hunger and food insecurity.

Mountain communities are usually left out from the benefits of society because of their geographic location; they have limited access to basic nutrition, clean water, medical services and education – resulting in extreme poverty. These conditions have been worsened by climate change, which has altered the environmental conditions that communities are already struggling to survive in. For example, erratic rainfall patterns disrupt crop cycles and make populations vulnerable to limited or excessive water supply; this creates more problems such as land infertility or erosion, which are root causes of malnutrition and the destruction of fragile highland ecosystems. Our mountains’ survival depends on responsible tourism and the harmony between its inhabitants and their natural surroundings.

Through Peaks Over Poverty and Pioneer Journeys, participants’ climbs, hikes, treks, and expeditions will raise money for grassroots organizations that are dedicated to improving the wellbeing of mountain communities and the conservation of fragile highland ecosystems. We choose partners who work together with local people to find solutions to poverty and land degradation by using local resources, knowledge and traditional practices. Our partners focus on sustainable development, such as chemical-free agriculture and rain harvesting systems, that require small investments and are based on hands-on learning, which can be easily passed on between families, neighbors, and communities.